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2011年6月21日 星期二

What a pair of Good shoes is?

As I had mentioned in “to Break the Myth of Perfect Shoes” that we have to be intended in search of a good pair, a near to perfect pair according to our individuals’ demands, it requires us to be brave to put on different pairs in order to feel the textures, the fittings, and the pressure when we walk and spiral in front of the mirror, seeing how the shoes lengthen our delicate feet and calf , and enhance our outer beauty by its mix of materials, shapes, and personalities. And I know that our standard varies with the purposes which drive us to buy a pair of shoes.
Salvatore Ferragamo fitting with Audrey Hepurn

And the designs of shoes considered it well, and it has long been composing the ultimate goals of all respectable shoes-makers.
Four years ago, I came across a book entitled “the Shoes Maker”, which is an auto-biography of a noticed and historic figure in the post war ages in fashion. And the shoes maker is Salvatore Ferragamo. In this book, he writes again and again what he insist in making a shoe. And that is what shoes wearers’ essential needs. According to the book, I loosely remember that “The feet are the only part supporting our body’s weight. It tolerates from great pressure. However, it is important to keep the structure of feet in health, and main the nature structure of the bones. Sadly there are number of bad shoes damaging our precious feet in order to seek so-called beauty by squeezing out toes into the tightly shoes’ front, attiring the ankles by hard leathers, making the bottom of feet with thicken skin by constant attrition between the shoe and the bottom of feet, and leading to great smell by wrong use of materials.”

His insight in the needs of problems of foot-wear made Salvatore Ferragamo into a master of creating nearly perfect shoes. As he described, the bottom part of the feet have to be kissed by the shoes, which closely bind the anchor of feet and the bottom part, resulting in no attrition. And, surely, there should be enough space for the toes, enabling feet moves comfortably and spread the pressure of body weight evenly on feet. In his eyes styles and colours are only embellishment of shoes after the functions, comfort and longevity of shoes considered. And his remarkable innovations and contributions in shoes-making are not discussed as I must have a lot to research and interpret, but his values on shoes are clear and essential to be mentioned in this chapter of perfect shoes.
Jimmy Choo himself,
adopted form whoisbobparris
Besides Mr. Salvatore Ferragamo, Jimmy Choo, a shoes-maker of Princess Diana, is another most talk-about shoes makers in the 20th century. His philosophy in making shoes is similar to Mr. Ferragamo’s one, but in orient interpretation, it is described as “Balanced”. He is skilful in designing elegant and delicate one-inch sleek pumps shoes. In the book entitled “Jimmy Choo” describes one of the battles between this legendary designer and the present shareholders and the founder of the brand, Jimmy Choo, Tamara Mellon. It is about the height of the shoes designs, in which Mr. Choo insisted that the balance of the shoes should not be ruined by turning it from one inch heel to four inches one, and as Tamara noticed the trend of the marker changed to favour those four inches heels, Tamara thought it is just a political fight within the authority of the company and therefore his opinion was considered as naïve and unwise.
Jimmy Choo himself is proud of what he makes. Takes Princess Diana acts as an example. She insisted to donate and bid all the old clothes excepted for Jimmy’s works- short pumps in nice style with enough space in the shoes’ fronts for toes and movement, which made Princess Diana comfortable to stand and walk in long hours during trips and ceremonies. And those shoes are all one to two inches couture pumps in elegant style and use of soft materials. It really protects and decorates one’s feet to enhance the inner beauty of one person rather than become a part of outer beauty.

Jimmy Choo couture
adopted from ShoeAddict.com
And there are other marvellous designs of shoes- the curved platform. When the platforms of shoes are not completely close to the ground and curved little upward, which fits the movement of joints between toes and feet, it provides us a force to walk forward easily when we move our body pressure forward. It also makes our walk easy and sexy, as our steps can easily be walked in rhythm with hips and waist moved with curve. And the shoes platform should be soft and flexible. And it allows the shapes of shoes changed with the movement of our feet to reduce attrition of the feet.

In most situations, our confidence is based on what we feel. If a shoe hurts, we feel pain, and how can we show confidence about ourselves without a look of uncomfortable and pain? Only when we feel our feet are kissed by the suede or lamp skin of the shoes, and when we walk firmly and unconsciously about the pressure we feel and without the fear to fall and crack our ankles, here are the right shoes. Finally, I sincerely hope every one of you would have found a right pair and be kept away from the pain of wearing shoes with bad qualities. I understand looks is of paramount important, but also the structure and health of feet! Without healthy feet, a pair of perfect shoes alone is nothing. Trust me.

2009年5月19日 星期二

Give Me the Heels

你嘩一聲給Nina Ricci鬼才Olivier Theyskens設計--凌空高跟鞋, 不, 這再不是在高跟鞋的層次.踏着刀形的12吋鞋跟, 在配上強橫的肩膀剪裁, 模特兒都輕鬆地跳步, 同時亦少了Prada2009春夏季,戰戰兢兢的臉容,更多了深人靜,鬼鬼祟祟的氣氛和風格.
Vivienne Westwood1994年Fall-winter的紫色十二吋鬆糕鞋之後, 隨後設計師都逃不過超高跟鞋的魅力吸引, 一而再,再而三地在每季的天橋上展示一對對超unwearable的所謂高跟鞋. 而John Galliano就是當中的表表者,在他的系列中(特別在高級訂製服),想找到同Vivienne Westwood的影子並不困難. 例如:格紋呢料, 披披搭搭的造型,左包右包的手袖,超挺胸的剪裁和件件令人窒息的馬甲.但最令人驚嘆的都是那些永遠向高空挑戰的鬆糕鞋吧.











金屬皮扣互相糾纏出網狀結構,把模特兒脆弱的足踝鎖得緊緊的,同時在腳踝上創出流線婀娜的效果,亦可能是為了避免模特兒在天橋上跌得太令人肉痛,所以鞋還是穿少兩碼好.極度女性化一向是Dior的代名詞,多高四五吋也不算過份.今季卻來點中國味,或是東方味道,這對泥黃色的高跟鞋高貴之餘,又是一對充滿Dior精神的鞋子.

而這一邊廂就是最令我眼開的Balenciaga!這國寶品牌向來蝦人穿的,不論是春夏季的太空裝還是太空漫遊2001的機艙服務員製服,就算你荷包能應付起十套八套,沒有個人穿衣技巧及嬌人身材,是絕對穿不了它的作品.因此,有人亦說;當你能穿上Balenciaga時,你就成為了一個真正的潮人.


今季2009-2010Ready-to-wear, Balenciaga放棄了那超現實的思維創意, 一反正常的路向, 而改用充分顯現女性化的絲質摺疊的下身設計. 而鞋子方面亦有金黃色的設計, 但似乎亦罷脫不了機械味道.就看鞋底就知道, 這情意結依然在Balenciaga.









And over here, is Stella McCartney. Financial Crisis really hits the fashion industry, but also limited those designers' creativity.Although many of them understood that they need to creat the wearable, not the fabulous,one, they seems still cannot surround to the fact.This is the Great example!黑皮over-knees boots 是今季其中一個潮流.在眾多皮夾高靴中,Stella McCartney就是我的最愛.為什麼?請細看. 緊貼大小足部的每一吋皮膚, 又似第二層人皮的leather boot.


金屬高跟十分利落, 亦不乏rock味之餘.還要在每對鞋上都釘上花紋鉚釘.狂野十足的鞋, 就似是今個show的調味劑, 在乏味的衣裳下給人點點驚喜.







JPG一直不是我的最愛,瀏覽時總飛快的粗讀他的作品,除了Hermes以外,他的個人時裝實在不能討好我這個追求經典的時裝愛好者.除了他在Modonna的圓錐馬甲及早兩年以神聖為主題的高級訂製服之外,其他作品實在不懂得欣賞.特別是早季的網狀訂製服,不知為什麼其他人為他叫好叫座似的.但今次的網紋鞋的確有趣呀. 還有這對紅鞋,令我回想The Wizard of Oz中的 多樂非.穿著紅鞋一走天涯.紅得性感及天真,沒半點不真的.











Last but not lease, Givenchy.
毛毛鞋不是Mrs.Robinson的專利,性感,除了是透明內衣,羽毛披肩,白色皮草外,一對粉紅色的羽毛高跟鞋便是性感之物.但Givenchy的不是粉紅色,而是肉色,黑色和白色.最動人的還是鞋跟上的zip.Roberto的靴子都有由大腿拉王腳跟的zip同是酷得極人,但今次Givenchy加添大量鉚釘和鐵鍊子.rock this winter please!